There are hotels that push back with too-cool-for-school attitude (you know who you are!), and then there are hotels that extend their arms in warm welcome – The Royal is definitely a welcomer. In fact, its casual air belies the well-informed staff and behind-the-scenes thoughtfulness that influences every inch of this gorgeous space – even the contactless hand-sensor that opens the front door is an intimation of the well-oiled details to come.
Photo: Graydon Herriott
The lobby triggers an immediate away-from-it-all feeling: sit by the fire on the fathoms-deep sofa in the cushy Parlour, or head over to The Counter Bar where the buzzy vibe and simply prepared, Italian-influenced food will make you wish it were your local. It’s really just opened but already has that lifeblood-of-the-community sort of feel: dusty, toqued contractors zip in for takeaway coffee, young couples sip half-pints of Parsons and weigh the merits of the Margherita versus the Genoa, locals get a little loud singing “happy birthday” over a boozy lunch.
We practically pounced on Head Chef Albert Ponzo to give thanks for his transcendent house-made tagliatelle with oxtail and beef shank ragu. When we told him we’d return just to devour it again, he gently reminded us that the food is seasonal, i.e. nothing is a fixture on the bill of fare. Nature helps write the menu here with a delicious bounty of in-season ingredients, many of which are organic and grown at the hotel’s farm.
Photo: Graydon Herriott
And then there are the rooms. I think Evan summed it up perfectly when he said our room could easily be in New York or London. The Royal has accomplished that hard-to-attain design feat: guest rooms that have a distinctive sense of locality but are so well done they transcend place with a sense of timelessness. Décor is contemporary and comforting. The blissed-out bedrooms are soporific in their serenity – go for one with an in-plain-view tub – and the mosaic-tiled bathrooms make getting ready a jewel-box moment.
Photo: Graydon Herriott
The staff are wonderful thanks, in part, to the expert overview of Director of Operations, Niall McCotter. He’s fashioned a working environment where everyone is professional and keen without any of that overly casual, forced friendliness. And expect to see Project Lead Sol Korngold just about everywhere. His passion for The Royal is contagious and his maniacal attention to detail is reassuring – he even chose the flatware and the dishes. The takeaway: this is the real deal. There’s no “that’s done, what’s next?” attitude. The guiding spirit here is dedication and commitment to the County fostered by on-site, hands-on hard work.
I imagine it will be near impossible to get a reservation here once summer comes (outdoor delights include a pool and a private terrace reserved exclusively for guests), so go now.
Details to love:
-The delicious espresso is hot. For some reason, this isn’t a universal characteristic of restaurant espresso, but it’s piping at The Royal.
-The bedding smells, well, like nothing. I’m always shocked when reputable getaways disappoint with overpowering oxi formulations, ersatz-fresh detergents and icky scent sprays. Not here.
-In-room coffee is a stylish affair. No ugly machines and throwaway pods pretentiously presented as chocolates, rather a mod matte-black kettle, freshly ground coffee in a reusable glass jar and a French press.
-Automatic blinds – I admit, I glean childlike (possibly worrisome) joy from operating these.
-Custom, plant-based Telford toiletries in full-size dispensers. Not only do they smell subtly divine, there is something so welcoming about amply sized unguents.
