The pandemic thwarted two of our planned UK trips. The first one was a visit to the Lake District with Evan’s Auntie Jan and Uncle Bob, and the second one was a visit to London where we planned to OD on art and theatre, eat oysters and Old Bay Chips at Covent Garden’s The Oystermen and see Nia Wyn’s headline show in Bermondsey.
None of it happened. But the upside to staying closer to home was exploring more accessible diversions and taking road trips. With all that Ontario has to offer, London might not be the first destination to spring to mind. It wasn’t ours to be honest. But we have friends who recently moved there and thought, “Why not?”
Firstly, despite its collegiate reputation, London is not just a university town. It’s a proper city (population just over 400,000) and, according to Statistics Canada, it’s tied with Ottawa as the country’s fastest growing metropolitan area second only to Kitchener-Waterloo. Getting there is pretty easy too as it’s a two-hour drive from the GTA.
And London snobs (I know you’re out there) take note: it holds its own with more popular Ontario destinations, especially if you fancy art, craft beer, farmers’ markets, fab restaurants, cocktail bars, preserved historical architecture, cool neighbourhoods and walks along the Thames (yes, they have one of those too).
Our first stop was Museum London and it’s a must. Designed by iconic Canadian architect Raymond Moriyama, it showcases diverse exhibitions in a serene setting – if you only visit to sit in the light-filled second level and take in the view of the forks of the Thames, it’s worth it.
After touring the museum, we made a left at its front door and headed over to Eldon House, which is minutes away.
This stunning 19th-century, Georgian- and Regency-style home (it’s sort of like London’s Downton Abbey) is the city’s oldest residence and it housed four generations of the Harris family, who eventually bequeathed it and its grounds to the city.
It still feels very much like their abode – all rooms feature original furnishings and heirlooms – and it’s a window to how wealthy families used to live, right down to the servants’ bells and quarters.
Most native Londoners last visited Eldon House as kids on a school trip, but it is a fascinating place and worth multiple viewings.
And – surprise – London is a food and drink destination with many independently owned businesses serving up delicious fare with provenance. The unassuming brick façade of Milos’ Craft Beer Emporium in no way intimates the extensive range of carefully curated craft beers and ciders on tap or the anything-but-beerhall menu. Yes, there are bar nuts, burgers (house-made) and fries, but there’s also vegetable-laden, kimchi-fried rice topped with a fried egg, falafel sandwiches and a vegan cheeseboard.
For small plates and original cocktails, Hunter & Co. can’t be beat. Sit at the bar and snack on Korean Fried Chicken bites while an expert bartender mixes your drink (the “Hot in Herre” cocktail made with jalapeno-infused tequila is unmissable).
Make a reservation for dinner at Grace, a farm-to-table resto (truly– farmers drop off their bounty at Grace’s backdoor) that mixes fine dining with industry fairness.
Executive Chef Angie Murphy is in the kitchen cooking seasonal, local ingredients to create flavourful, inventive dishes that are both impressive and comforting.
After indulging, head back to the Thames and enjoy its riverside walking and bike paths or go explore some neighbourhoods. Wortley Village, in the south end, feels like a proper village with tree-lined streets and heritage homes that run the gamut from quaint cottages to handsome mansions. For a more up-and-coming vibe, head to Old East Village, just east of downtown. As well as an abundance of bakeries and cafés, there is a growing number of independent shops – don’t miss Back to the Fuchsia for antiques and Bread and Roses for books.
Like all good road-trippable destinations, London offers a choice of farmers’ markets. Covent Garden Market is conveniently located downtown with an indoor market that’s open everyday (with a seasonal farmers’ market two days a week). But if you really want to feel like a local, shop The Market at Western Fair District.
It’s open weekends and has over 100 vendors, including Out of the Deep Seafood Co., purveyors of ethically sourced, sustainable fish, who packed our purchases on ice for the drive back to the GTA. Evan couldn’t leave without trying a marvellously melty grilled cheese at Goodah and I bought a premade pizza at the oddly named Uncle Dad’s and the odd-sounding dill pickle and bacon pie wasn’t bad at all.
Overnighters will want to check into Hotel Metro, London’s only boutique hotel, located in the heart of downtown, steps from Covent Garden Market.
We booked a Loft Room that had cool views of the city and design elements to spare, namely a wall of exposed 1892 bricks, 10-foot ceilings and, not for the shy, an open-concept bathroom with an in-plain-sight soaker tub. Photos of the tub being used are not included to spare you, gentle reader.
Overall, London may surprise you (I was impressed with the food in particular) and it really does make for a fun and easy getaway.
