Stephanie Spence and Camille Katona had an epiphany – retaliate against the prescribed notions of beauty by creating makeup that defies age, i.e. makeup for everyone from 19 to 99. Having worked in the industry for almost a decade (the pair began their careers at Bite Beauty, from start-up to LVMH acquisition), overseen several product launches and launched brands internationally, Spence and Katona (32 and 28 respectively) know of what they speak. I sat down with the forward-thinking team to get the scoop on their fab new brand.
19/99 Beauty Founders Camille Katona and Stephanie Spence.
Why did you launch with just two products, a red pencil and a face gloss?
CK: There’s so much excess in the industry that we wanted to challenge ourselves to create a limited number of products that are universal and work for anyone regardless of age, skin tone, aesthetic and lifestyle.
SS: 19/99’s Lead Makeup Artist, Simone Otis, has vast experience working with people of all skin tones and ages, and was able to help us develop both of these products to ensure they are truly universal. Red lipstick is a timeless, ageless statement that we felt was an approachable way to introduce customers to the product.
Yeah, but a lot of women are scared of red.
CK: Throughout our time in the industry we’ve constantly heard people commenting that, ‘this red won’t work for me’ or ‘I can’t wear red.’ We believe that anyone can pull off any colour; it’s just about wearing it with confidence.
I love that. Let’s go back to what your influence was for 19/99 Beauty.
SS: There was a big disconnect between how we, and other women in our lives, were being spoken to in beauty and what we were looking for. The discourse around aging tends to be negative, and older women are spoken to in a token way. We became frustrated with the general campaign against aging. Age isn’t necessarily a signifier of what one’s tastes, preferences or behaviours.
CK: In fact, we both share more tastes and preferences with people who are 20 or 30 years older than us as we do people our own age, so why can’t we speak to everyone in the same way? We wanted to create something that removes the age category, and encourages creativity and fun with makeup application.
You use the word ‘retaliation’ in your tagline, but how can you translate that to makeup?
CK: Anyone who’s worked in beauty or fashion, or any woman, is aware of all the noise on how we should look, act, dress, eat and generally behave. We created 19/99 to push back on all the noise that manipulates self-image, and on the excess in the industry. It was quite drastic to launch with a super-limited assortment in an industry that is used to unlimited choice.
SS: When COVID-19 first hit, we were hesitant to use the word retaliate in a time that needs us to work together and cooperate. But we realized that this could be a time that we push back against how the industry was working pre-COVID, and participate in the conversation on how we can create change post-COVID. To retaliate, is to feel comfortable in your own skin and reject the norms of how we should think, act or look. The term ‘Retaliation Age’ also signifies a period of time where we have the opportunity to rethink what beauty is all about.
And I admire how your rethink also gives back with your alliance to Nellie’s.
SS: Community has always been a focus for us. We both grew up in Toronto, and 19/99 is based here, so it was important to us to find an organization we could partner with locally. Nellie’s is a remarkable organization that supports women and children facing violence, poverty and homelessness. It’s committed to social change through education and advocacy. Many of the women who come to Nellie’s have low self-esteem and have never felt beautiful; we hope to help all women see their beauty. We are donating a portion of our sales to Nellie’s and in the future plan to work with them in various ways, through different initiatives and programs.
19/99’s bold packaging has serious provenance - Bauhaus and Secession Art are influences - and fun appeal. “Voros,” which means “red” in Hungarian and is a nod to Camille’s Eastern European ancestry.
Back to the pencil and gloss. Why do you love them?
CK: We both have an affinity for lip products. We’ve tried so many different colours and textures, so we knew exactly what textures we wanted when developing the Precision Colour Pencil and High-Shine Gloss.
SS: We’ve always used lip products beyond the lips, and feel that it’s intuitive to apply lip colour or gloss on cheeks and lids. Camille has been using lip liners as eyeliners for ages, so we knew it was possible to create a product for multiple areas of the face. We went through many iterations of the pencil formula before we got to the final version: a comfortable matte on the lips, but not too creamy for precise eye application. We love this product because it can be used to create entirely different looks.
How do each of you wear it?
CK: I love to wear it as eyeliner whereas Stephanie likes it on her lips and cheeks.
So, what do you say to those who may not want to wear it on their eyes or cheeks?
CK: A big part of the brand and product development was education; ways we could show people how to use the product and have fun with it. We worked with Simone Otis to create educational videos, and since launching we’ve been hearing from a lot of customers on how, after watching the videos, they’ve tried the product on their eyes or cheeks – something that isn’t necessarily intuitive for all, and they love it.
What about the gloss?
SS: With the High-Shine Gloss we wanted something that could stand on its own and be worn as a complement to the Precision Colour Pencil. We were lucky to work with very talented (and patient!) chemists who introduced us to unique and interesting ingredients that got the formula away from anything sticky or heavy, and gave us the lasting shine, dewy glow and comfortable wear that we wanted.
CK: The gloss can be used in many different ways. The ceramides in the formula help lock in moisture and make the skin and lips look plumper. We added a tiny bit of really fine pearl to the formula to create a subtle sheen. We love wear it on bare eyelids, as a dewy highlighter on our cheekbones and over a bold red lip.
My 19/99 items. Even the sharpener is made with great care to ensure a perfect point (it’s crafted in Ireland and features a German blade).
Why should someone try 19/99?
CK: We want to be known for quality and versatility, and a brand that consumers can trust. We believe in science, not marketing hype, communicating clearly and directly with consumers, avoiding false marketing and buzzwords.
Like what?
SS: There are clear deconstructions of our ingredient lists available on our site. You won’t find the terms like ‘clean beauty’ on there, as we feel that this term has lost meaning due to conflicting definitions that are not rooted in science.
CK: Exactly. We’re a responsible beauty brand, which means making responsible choices in all aspects of the business from raw materials, to supply chain, to packaging, to community. We’ve replaced traditional product packaging with a universal paper envelope, and bubble wrap in our mailers with newsprint. We’ll continue to expand our sustainability efforts as we grow.
What’s next for 19/99?
CK: We hope to lead the conversation surrounding aging in beauty and play an active role in reshaping the values of the industry. In terms of products, we’ll continue to release new shades, starting with the essentials for your makeup bag and building from there.
SS: In the fall we’ll be launching much more vibrant colours, as well as essential makeup tools. 19/99 is all about encouraging people to get comfortable playing with makeup and having fun with it.
