Just over an hour’s drive from Toronto, Cambridge Mill feels like a world away. Indeed, the carefully restored, biscuit-coloured beauty is more than just a visual elixir after the 401. “First-time guests arrive not knowing what awaits,” says Bryar Hind, Marketing Manager for Pearle Hospitality. “But then they see this gorgeous 19th-century limestone mill, this stunning Grand River view. They experience the thoughtful service and delicious food. Not many people expect to find this in Cambridge!”
The view of the river from our table.
To be honest, I wasn’t exactly sure what to expect, but having stayed and eaten at The Elora Mill (a sister Pearle Hospitality gem), I knew I’d be in for a treat. And I was kicking myself that it took me so long to get here. I had no idea this lovely spot has been open since 2011 – did you?
General Manager Alex Kastner showed us to a primo table overlooking the Grand. The restaurant is framed with retractable glass panels which were open, creating the kind of breezy perch that makes shoulders relax in anticipation of a sunny summer lunch (they’ve also added a front veranda to extend outdoor seating during Covid).
The very charming General Manager Alex Kastner.
The contemporary menu is a crowd-pleaser. It’s anchored with comfort-food like craft-cut burgers on homemade sesame buns, wild mushroom toast and possibly the world’s best onion rings, yet it also dishes up beautifully constructed plates. Executive Chef Austin Ratcliffe (a BC native who looks young enough to be carded) devised the menu with his Chef de Cuisine Mike Fry. “The dishes are all about seasonality and promote coming together, with many of the items being shareable,” says Chef Ratcliffe. “We really are making food that we would love to eat.”
Chef Austin Ratcliffe who joined Cambridge Mill in 2018 and became Executive Chef in 2019. He says, “It’s been an amazing opportunity to work on the food program here and it’s great to work alongside our farm. I love highlighting the produce and preparing it in simple ways that bring out authentic flavours.”
His expert menu and plating are matched by the ingredients, many of which are from “Earth to Table: The Farm” (referred to as “ETT” on the menu), Pearle Hospitality’s 100-acre organic farm in Flamborough, Ontario. “The Farm liaises with our chefs to understand what they want to serve,” says Bryar. “It’s a fascinating symbiotic relationship. The properties work together to ensure the produce is used, and the farm grows ingredients based on the chefs’ annual requests.”
Harvesting produce at The Farm in Flamborough.
The Farm harvests weekly and the haul in August so far has included tomatoes, beets, scallions, lettuce, arugula, chilies, garlic, carrots, eggplant, zucchini, ground cherries, mint, basil, sumac, oregano, tomatillo, mustard greens, swiss chard, edible flowers and even honey.
My main of halibut showcases Chef Ratcliffe’s passion for provenance and freshness. “It’s our best-seller right now,” he says. “It’s pan-seared and served with ETT roasted carrots, carrot puree, carrot salad and dill, but the best part about this dish is the garnish that’s not listed in the description. It’s a variety of herbs and flowers from our Farm, including shiso, purslane, mint and other botanicals that change the flavour with every bite.”
The Farm is also a stunning event venue – think picture-postcard reclaimed barn – and more. Alex says, “As well as all of the produce, it houses our own apple orchard with over 100 trees and a variety of apples, our own apiary with several hives and it is where our butcher hand-selects and dry-ages our beef.”
The focus on quality extends to The Mill’s charitable convictions. “We work closely with the city and with Bridges, a local homeless shelter, to raise awareness, and provide care for those who need it,” says Bryar. “We host an annual Christmas Eve dinner in partnership with Bridges and it’s a really magical night for all of us involved.”
I had to pick Bryar’s brain on what to do in Cambridge as, after our superlative lunch, we only toured the city’s historic residential neighbourhood (it’s gorgeous).
Day-trippers take note! Bryar says, “Start at Monigram Coffee Roasters for the best coffee in town, have lunch at the Mill and end with an L.A. Franks ice-cream cone by the River. And don’t miss our awesome local shops like The Art of Home and The Witty and Co.”
Make the very special Cambridge Mill your next day-trip destination now and thank me later.
