Where to Stay
Though just six years old, The Beaumont is the kind of hotel that feels like an old soul. Indeed, the fictional inspiration for this charming boutique property is James Beaumont (Jimmy to his friends), an ex-New York hotelier who moves to London in the 1920s to escape the dreariness of prohibition in favour of establishing a sybaritic sanctuary that feels like a swish, members-only club.
Décor follows suit channeling relaxed Art Deco elegance. Beyond the revolving door, there are burled rosewood walls, club chairs and glossy black and white floor tiles in the lobby, where the founder’s myth is reinforced in heavily framed oil paintings, reputedly of Jimmy as a young man and as an older hotelier.
The entry’s stylish effect – bathed in subdued golden lighting of the most flattering kind – is an intimation of what’s to come. Rooms and suites are supremely comfortable and riff on the club vibe with Art Deco-inspired artwork, a generous selection of current magazines, a curated collection of books and a comforting array of complimentary snacks (oh, the smoked almonds!) which are replenished daily.
The soporific beds are a tonic but the big point of difference here is the complete silence; rooms are so utterly quiet you’d never know you’re in the heart of Mayfair and steps from Oxford Street. We stayed in a Classic Suite which had a proper separate sitting room that could be closed off with a sliding door. It also boasted a powder room with heated floors, in addition to the stunning main marble bath with more heated floors, a separate tub and oodles of heavenly smelling D.R. Harris toiletries.
Staff is hands-on, friendly and remembered our names – the doormen excel at this. The bar and Colony Grill are popular with guests and locals alike (we saw the very dishy male supermodel David Gandy here in the run-up to London Fashion Week). Should you wish for something less busy, take advantage of your hotel residency and access The Cub Room, a private lounge exclusively for Beaumont guests and their visitors.
The Beaumont’s Cub Room which is reserved exclusively for hotel residents.
Make time for the lower-level spa: there’s a small gym with a Peloton bike, a menu of hammam experiences and facials with the “magic hands” of renowned UK skin guru Abigail James (also check out the barber shop, if only to admire its glamorous design).
How fab is this barber shop?
If you haven’t booked it, see if you can arrange to view “ROOM,” the interior suite of the dramatic abstract sculpture by Antony Gormley that adorns the front of the building. It is spectacular.
I think The Beaumont is London’s best-kept secret and holds its own against neighbouring Mayfair grande-dames. After one stay, it feels like an old haunt… just the way Jimmy would have wanted it to.
Where to Eat
Book a table at Scully in St. James’s, a resto that truly lives up to the “fusion’ label – in a good way; Malaysian-born Chef Ramael Scully was brought up in Sydney by Chinese-Indian and Irish-Balinese parents. The food is inventive, original and – so heartening – chef is actually here cooking in the highly visible open-plan kitchen.
Cornish plaice crudo with pickled red cabbage, chili oil, scallions and roe.
St. John is the quintessential British restaurant. It is pure quality here and there are no extraneous anythings to hide behind. We first visited so long ago that smoking was still allowed (maybe that’s why the signature pig ashtray somehow ended up coming home with us!). Comforting excellence is a pretty good summation of a meal here.
Dover sole at St. John.
Kerridge’s Bar & Grill, in the rather glam Corinthia Hotel, is worth a visit should you love fish and chips, amongst other scrummy offerings. It’s casual and fun with super competent service and the high-quality, provenance-heavy food and plating is testament to Chef Tom Kerridge’s Michelin-starred CV.
Fish and chips at Kerridge’s Bar & Grill at The Corinthia.
Emilia in Mayfair is located within the Bonhams’ auction house headquarters, which may seem an odd location for a very serious food establishment, yet the space is extremely comfortable, welcoming and an excellent place to have lunch. Food, wine and service are faultless.
Emilia’s tagliatelle with cockles and leeks.
The Oystermen in Covent Garden keeps going from strength to strength. It has doubled its space since I first visited in 2018 and is the best place for oysters (and Old Bay Chips) in London.
The Wolseley is on everyone’s list and for good reason. You can’t go wrong with the food here; I love it for breakfast where the scene is anything but sleepy.
Hot buttered kippers and green juice at The Wolseley.
Indian Accent nails Indian food in a fresh, flavourful and sophisticated way. The very comfortable space, an outpost of the original Michelin-starred New Delhi location, also offers friendly, impeccable service. The sweet pea koftas, peanut butter chicken and meetha anchaar pork ribs are sublime.
And if cocktails are a barometer of a restaurant’s originality, then Indian Accent is one-of-a-kind. The spicy and sweet Green Chili Sour (hari merch infused tequila, lemon oleo saccharum and mezcal) was an intriguing balance of flavours and a delicious start to the meal. The engaging sommelier, when he found out we were from Toronto, mentioned how he was in the process of sourcing Ontario wines, including Vidals, to add the house list.
Tofu masala at Indian Accent.
Green chili sours at Indian Accent.
Lyle’s in Shoreditch excels at simply prepared contemporary British food with an onus on quality ingredients and big flavours – think Bloodcake with Chicory and Apple Mustard or Welsh Mountain Mutton with Purple Sprouting Broccoli and Anchovy. The menu changes daily but bartender Charlie Macintosh’s Best Bitter (he makes it in his dad’s garage) is always on offer.
Monkfish with spinach and Pink Fir Apple potatoes at Lyle’s.
Bartender and master brewer Charlie Macintosh at Lyle’s (many of my Instagram followers wanted to know if they could have this cute guy’s number - I’m afraid I can’t oblige but that’s all the more reason to visit Lyle’s).
Bocca di Lupo is a very buzzy and busy spot – reservations are essential. The Italian food is drawn from many different regions and when we were there featured hard-to-find gems like puntarelle. Locals and tourists alike make up the crowd and there is bar seating up front overlooking the kitchen so you can watch the simple, sturdy dishes being made.
Vitello tonnato and fried artichokes at Bocca di Lupo.
And back to The Beaumont, for room service. I had to include this Club Sandwich, a midnight order after a play ran long and we missed our dinner reservation. It tasted as spectacular as it looks.
Room service at The Beaumont.
What to Do
This trip, we visited The Wallace Collection, which is the kind of museum you can spend days in (and a very lovely Instagram friend told me their courtyard resto serves up the best scrambled eggs on sourdough). We also went back to the beguiling Sir John Soane’s Museum, a historic home that’s a treasure trove of the architect’s art, furniture, artefacts and sculptures – no photos allowed! The Barbican is definitely worth a visit but keep in mind the galleries are closed Mondays. The building itself is fascinating and I love the enduring design elements and how this complex is like its own little village in the heart of The City.
The Wallace Collection.
We walked everywhere from Shoreditch and Chinatown to Kensington Palace – the park is beautiful and I can’t help but think of Diana whenever I see those gold-trimmed gates. My favourite walk was in picturesque Little Venice and Maida Vale, which seemed like a proper neighbourhood with very friendly residents, a few of whom chatted with us. We also checked out Coal Drops Yard, the revitalized railway arches near King’s Cross. There are many retail shops but I preferred the open pedestrianized spaces and enjoyed a decadent melted hot chocolate at Le Café Alain Ducasse.
Wearing my super comfy Cougar Kensingtons at Kensington Palace.
Little Venice.
Soho’s Chinatown.
We went to the theatre twice. The Visit, at The National Theatre, is a long play and not quite what we expected in that it felt kind of like a musical and was a bit over the top and melodramatic at times. It was worth it though just to see the magnificent Lesley Manville, even if her American accent sounded like a miffed Bette Davis. Endgame at The Old Vic is a must and, like The Times says, Alan Cumming is “bitter and brilliant.” It was also a thrill to see Jane Horrocks and Daniel Radcliffe on stage. It’s on now till March 28 so go if you can.
