STAY
The former headquarters of The Spanish Paper Company, The Urso Hotel & Spa beckons the moment you lay eyes on it. Outside, this neoclassical beauty is the colour of buttercream icing and strikes a majestic note with ornate stone flourishes, blue-and-white tile embellishments and wrought-iron balconies dressed with gold finials.
The location can’t be beat: it takes up a city block between the Chamberi and Chueca ’hoods so it is central but just enough outside of the heaving tourist areas to be quiet, calm and part of the local landscape.
Inside, it is pure eye candy.
Ginger jars and Christofle.
They make taking the stairs beautiful.
This is the light-filled spot where breakfast is served.
The spa’s hydrotherapy pool is a soothing treat after walking all day.
An elegant private dining room.
The guest rooms are simple and comfortable with marble-clad baths and Urso-brand toiletries, which smelled like Le Labo Rose 31 to me.
This is our deluxe room which had two Juliet balconies and a separate sitting area.
There’s a local market/mercado across the street with a rooftop patio (mostly frequented by students) that’s always packed. We went to the market most days to pick up extras like Spanish oranges. Though our Spanish is terrible and most Madrileños speak little to no English, everyone was helpful. Madrileños are unlike other Europeans: they are reserved, but not aloof; friendly, but not overly demonstrative. They have a quiet confidence and pride in their culture that makes them relatively oblivious to the masses of tourists that descend on their city every day. I found that very appealing.
You can see the glass panels which line the rooftop bar here.
The Urso feels like a proper neighbourhood place. The metro is minutes away and I loved the balconies – perfect for soaking up the sun and people-watching. Stay here for the central location, spa amenities and friendly service.
EAT
Just steps from the hotel is La Duquesita, a storied bakery that opened in 1914. It is famous for good reason.
Filled with stylish locals, it’s a great place for a coffee and takeaway goodies – many of these Pastas de té were consumed. They have the best croissants and on Saturday mornings they make tiny, warm, sugar-rolled doughnuts.
We had an amazing lunch at Los Montes de Galicia – it’s not off the radar, in fact last time I looked it was rated the number-one resto in Madrid on Trip Advisor. Despite that, it was all Spanish families on the Sunday we ate there.
That’s Francisco in the background - gentleman and waiter extraordinaire.
They offer complimentary salt cod fritters to start – perfectly prepared and not remotely heavy or greasy.
Octopus and potato with pimenton.
Cabrito/baby goat shoulder.
My “lasagna” in Sailor Sauce – basically a heavenly mix of pureed potato and hake with an intense seafood reduction, sort of like an Armoricaine Sauce. The clams on top were perfect.
Dinner at O’Pazo, an elegant resto with old-school waiters and wiggling fresh seafood.
This is their house-smoked salmon and sea snails, complimentary starters.
We ordered this lovely Ribera del Duero in honour of the upcoming day trip we had planned to the region. We met the family behind Val Sotillo wines and toured their historic property.
The best tomato bread and anchovies ever.
Sublime turbot and hake - the fish is so fresh here it needs nothing else. Some oil, salt, pepper - divine. Note, there was another addition to Evan’s turbot: a hint of vinegar, a signature Galician touch.
No caption required.
There are great-quality tapas everywhere in Madrid (put Sala de Despiece on your list), but we loved enjoying them at Platea, not only for its novel setting: a former theatre in a shopping mall. It was full of locals, the original design has been preserved and they have a DJ. In true Madrileño style, it’s open till 2 am.
The best - I am working on my tortilla de patata game right now.
A neighbourhood bistro, Vinoteca Moratin is tiny, authentic and makes you feel like a local. It is very small - maybe 10 tables - so reservations are a good idea.
We ate here on one of our last nights and it was perfect: simple, light and the owner couldn’t have been more gracious.
The potato and pimenton starter - so simple and flavourful. I always hestitate to use too much pimenton, but not any more.
This was the freshest, most delicious salmon with a vinegary vegetable puree.
Veal cheek cannelloni for Ev: shredded veal cheek with creamy bechamel that was crisped to perfection. Amazing comfort food.
SEE
Art abounds and we hit all the must-sees: The Prado; The Thyssen-Bornemisza; and The Reina Sofia. All exceed expectations but I especially loved the contemporary art at the Reina.
Luis Camnitzer, from Hospice of Failed Utopias.
Richard Serra, Equal-Parallel: Guernica-Bengasi.
José Garcia Tella, La Seine.
Luis Camnitzer, from Hospice of Failed Utopias.
There’s also a rooftop terrace with great views.
Or you can be goofy and take selfies.
Don’t miss the less well-known but charming Museo del Romanticismo (which is about 10 steps from The Urso). It’s a glimpse into the preserved 19th-century home of a middle-class family.
A gentlemen’s toilet. Seriously, don’t you think there are a lot of great ideas to copy here?
This was in the “lady’s” bedroom and I want all of that green glass.
Dining room inspo.
Like NYC’s Central Park, Madrid’s El Retiro Park is a luscious green space smack dab in the heart of the city. There are monuments, fountains, gardens, a stunning 19th-century Glass Palace and the Large Lake. A local told us the lake is the venue of choice for romantics, especially spoony teenagers, who like to rent a row boat and woo their sweethearts on the water.
Soaking up the sun in Retiro Park.
Overrun with tourists by day, Plaza Mayor is best appreciated in the evening.
Madrid is full of beautiful art and architecture. Though it is sprawling, it’s a walking city and a pleasure to navigate, and the food and people are truly special. I am so glad I went. And so is Raphael…
